Joined: 03 Apr 2016
|Posted: Wed Jul 06, 2016 7:14 am Post subject: TD5 Bonnet!!!
|Fitting a bonnet to a defender should be easy...
My 50th became the Nene Overland Charger, so it’s been sprayed black (good quality spray job) but then ruined with silver go faster stripes. (A search on the forum will show you what it once looked like). It was also fitted with a genuine puma bonnet.
I managed to remove all vinyl except for the heat/sun baked on stuff on the bonnet; after many different methods, which including chemical and eventual sanding, I was left with a bonnet I wasn’t happy with - that needed a respray; When a TD5 one in black appeared on ebay. The puma and TD5 bonnets both have the car type bonnet stay – rather than the traditional Land Rover hinged type, as mine had been the car type the TD5 bonnet was the perfect replacement.
Although the puma bonnet has a nice bulge; its bloody heavy, and you can’t open it really wide for doing maintenance as you can with others and the front roll cage bar gets in the way.
The TD5 bonnet is all aluminium, so very light and no corrosion at all. So the choice was made; plus the puma one will sell on for more than the replacement cost of the TD5 – everyone wants puma bonnets these days.
Removing it on your own isn’t easy; so I managed to bribe my 15 year old niece into lending a hand – it should only be a 10 minute job. £10 seemed extortionate.
Off the puma bonnet came and on went the TD5, it propped up easy, and all the front end locking bits all aligned – 10 minutes later it was done; the last bit was to push it locked shut.
WHAT??? – it won’t close!!! What can this be…
It turned out the inner frame of the TD5 bonnet was a slightly different shape to the puma bonnet and the TD5 one now touched the head tank and the ECU!
A quick fettle and a piece of meccano later the header tank was clear,
Now the ECU bracket – it has 2 bolts at the top of the inner wing and 1 lower down. All its needs is 5mm more clearance. It closes fine without the white plastic dirt shield.
The lower bolt was a nut on the inside against the galvanised inner wing, a quick try and the whole thing turned so it must be a bolt rather than a stud.
Not a problem I have a helper… in the inner wheel arch is no sign of the bolt head. It turns out there is a plastic padded shield against the galvanised inner wing – with the bolt head sandwiched between the two.
You can’t get the plastic shield out without removing suspension turret or wing!
I undid the bolts holding this in place and with careful manipulation – I could see the bolt head, but would need arms of a monkey to get too it. (plus it’s only an 8mm head.)
After several minutes of explaining to a 15 year what a ratchet and a socket are and how to use them; and not to round off the bolt and this would be bad - the task was in hand.
With me on my back stretching as far as I can, and my niece with legs in the air leaning into the engine bay we manged to get the bolt loose, and out.
There was just enough movement now in the ECU for the bonnet to close. Wooohoo.
I’ll be modifying the bracket with a hole in a different place and replacing this bolt with a stainless one, after drilling a hole through the plastic shield and mounting it in and accessible part in the wheel arch of course!
Turns out my £10 was well spent after all, it went from £1 per minute to £5.00 per hour which is more realistic in the real world for a 15 year old.