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Gearbox Oil and Filter Change

 
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njjbailey



Joined: 12 Aug 2012
Posts: 11
Location: United Kingdom

PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 7:54 am    Post subject: Gearbox Oil and Filter Change Reply with quote

Chaps - has anyone done a gearbox oil filter/magnet change? Can you get to the filter without dropping the exhaust? What about the cross member? ..is there enough room to manoeuvre it? Any advice much appreciated Wink Cheers, Nick
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Romadog2004



Joined: 06 Aug 2008
Posts: 611
Location: Warwickshire

PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 4:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is a good video on You Tube on doing gearbox filter change, helped me a lot before I did mine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YKCEW9hFbh0

You need to move the crossmember and exhaust as shown in the video. Whole job is then simple.

However when I last did it my sump plug broke when refitting due to dodgy thread, so it all had to come apart again to change the sump as typically the thread tap in my set wasnt the right pitch !!
So replacing the plug as it is a hollow bolt and therefore delicate, would be beneficial.
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njjbailey



Joined: 12 Aug 2012
Posts: 11
Location: United Kingdom

PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 5:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thx for this - really useful
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What puddle?



Joined: 11 Oct 2008
Posts: 502
Location: Reading, Berkshire

PostPosted: Fri Jul 24, 2015 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jesus, there's some poor design there! Two different-length bolts (out of three) on the filter, a cross member way too close, and a gasket that doesn't sit in a groove (that amazingly didn't pop out - I've had that so many times!). Poor bloke even had to disconnect the front drive shaft. Such is engineering design. Sometimes, you just want the bloke who designed it right there with you, so that you can shake him warmly by the throat.
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Romadog2004



Joined: 06 Aug 2008
Posts: 611
Location: Warwickshire

PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2015 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You must remember the Defender wasnt designed to have auto box. It was just utilising parts from discovery. If you think that is bad design you need to work on an L322 Range Rover !!
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Captainbeaky



Joined: 23 Jan 2014
Posts: 115
Location: Madeira, Portugal

PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The poor design you mention isn't Landrover - it's the ZF 4HP transmission - they are all like that...

I didn't watch the video all the way through, so I don't know if the mechanic commented on the cleanliness required when working on auto transmissions.

But I did notice that he had dirty hands when he was reassembling the pickup to the oil pan, and he appeared to use a "shop rag" when he cleaned the pick up pipe. Also, the surface he had the filter on seemed to have dirt from the underside of the vehicle on it...

I've worked on a lot of autos, and cleanliness is paramount.
The clearances are so fine ( especially in the valve bodies) , that a human hair can cause problems.

Once you have dropped the sump and taken out the filter, clean all the parts down with carb cleaner and lint free cloths.
Then clean your hands ( I use nitrile gloves, and put on a clean pair) before reassembling anything.

Make 100% sure that everything is clean going back together.
( for example, only unpack the service kit just before you need it, to minimise the chance of any foreign matter going into it).

And make sure that no dirt is introduced when you refill the transmission too - if you use a funnel, make 100% sure it is clean.

And of course, use the reccomended ATF - Dex 3 from memory I think for the 4HP.
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gilmore



Joined: 01 Feb 2012
Posts: 136

PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 10:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is all really interesting.
What’s the recommended service interval on this job? Anyone know?
Thanks
Rob
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romanrob



Joined: 19 May 2006
Posts: 221
Location: SW London

PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a B service, so every 24k miles/ months. Filter is only once, after 24k miles. On that basis I haven't touched the filter on either the Defender or P38, just the ATF..
If you don't know when the fluid was last done, then put a white pail under the auto box and undo the plug, just let out some of the fluid and see if it's red (good), brown (not so good) or black and smells toasty (overdue). Also some garages may over-fill as they don't know what the levelling procedure is. If you do it yourself you can dip it first after getting to running temperature/ idle to check where the level is(P/N/R/D/3/2/1/ P etc). Then measure how much you remove, and then you have an idea of how much you're looking to replace (depending on whether you were high/ low to start with). Doing it this way you won't get the full volume out - so either you need to go to a specialist for an expensive flush procedure, or refill and recirculate the new ATF by running the vehicle, and then drain/ refill again.

Remember that what you replace is cold - once the level is at the bottom of the stick it's not v much to get to max - the bottom of the dipstick is near horizontal in the tube when fully inserted. It's easy to drop some out again if you over-fill.

When I looked last there was a video on the ZF site too, but they have a 4 post lift etc
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gilmore



Joined: 01 Feb 2012
Posts: 136

PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. Great advice
Cheers
Rob
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