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Oil pressure problem
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elcynico



Joined: 14 Jan 2009
Posts: 95

PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 12:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bluethunder - I could find no info about priming the oil pumps on the crank driven covers - though I'm well aware about packing the old pumps with oil...

As far as I "knew" the pumps on the post '94 engines should self prime pretty much straight away - even the workshop manual gives no info for priming - for older engines yes !

That's why I rang and spoke to Holly as the oil light did not extinguish immediately on the first few cranks...

Holly asked me what I'd done to the engine and basically as I hadn't changed the cam or followers he was saying those would still be oiled....

For what it's worth I filled the new oil pump gears in oil (a la manual) and filled the new filter with oil...

I don't see how you could pack the new pump with vaseline as it's nothing like the old style...

Anyhow for what it's worth the engine cranked and there was pressure after about 40 seconds....

On speaking to Holly - he said it would take 50-60 seconds, when I asked after what length of time I should worry he said 90 !

As for running the engine in order to get pressure he stated there's no choice but to do it this way.

The "bag of nails" quote was his words not mine !

Cheers !

PS I only went to RPI cos I had to !

On this occasion - no complaints !

Wink
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elcynico



Joined: 14 Jan 2009
Posts: 95

PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

By all means I am willing to be proven wrong - but just to reiterate what I've read - this is off another forum:

"You idiot.
You got me confused. You do not pack a oil pump on a 01 D2 motor with anything. The link you provided was to an old type pump. The D2 is driven off the crank.
But I was correct in stating that you need to mark the gears.
The priming of an D2 pump simply involves coating the components in engine oil. Assuming that he has not stripped it, the components should already be coated.

Therefore the answer to the original question about having to prime/pack the pump, the answer is NO."
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elcynico



Joined: 14 Jan 2009
Posts: 95

PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BLUETHUNDER wrote:

Once you have done so.You would then second stage prime the engine by removing the multiplug to the coil pack and crank for a minute.Once you have done so you connect back up and then fire up properly.

.


That's basically all I did when you think about - only difference is the mulitplug wasn't disconnected....and it took LESS than a minute !

Turning over the engine ignition connected or not still has the same result -"metal on metal"

(No I'm not quoting ANVIL !)

And I'm WELL versed with what happens when there's no oil pressure - i had a TD5 that the oil pump failed on - so don't go thinking I rushed into this without doing my homework !

Have a good weekend !
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bpv



Joined: 19 Mar 2007
Posts: 166
Location: The Netherlands

PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, I posted the toppic on nov 10th. for two months nothing happened and now, after one week being lazy in checking the forum, there are 3 pages of replies.
Shortly after the first post, I had the oil pressure sensor replaced. That didn't do the job. The issue is still there.
When the outside temperature is lower that about 5 degrees, the light remains on until I start driving with more than stationary revs.
I checked the last oil change bill. They put in BP Visco 5000 5w40. Is that good? They put in an oil filter with part number ERR3340.
The oil was changed less than 5000km ago.
The engine has done about 120k km (70k miles)
Thanks for any new input.
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Bernd

D067 from The Netherlands
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elcynico



Joined: 14 Jan 2009
Posts: 95

PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try putting 10/40w oil in....

On older 3.5 V8s the manual states that the oil pressure light will come on when stationary - though it doesn't happen with my 101 or my Defender...

If this doesn't work it would point to wear in the pump/the pressure release valve/worn crank - but at only 70,000 miles ?

Nah !

Any obvious signs of oil leaks ?

Oil cooler pipes go at the crimps, the sump, rear oil seal ?

Try changing the oil to the slightly thicker grade first !
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mac



Joined: 21 Nov 2009
Posts: 84
Location: Northumberland

PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 6:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree, put 10w40 in there first. ERR3340 is the correct filter (since it fits 2.5D/2.5NA/200/300 and all Rover V8's!) but is it a good pattern or OEM one?

Does the engine sound 'rattly' at all? Failing that get the things mentioned in the thread checked out! Keep us posted!
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bpv



Joined: 19 Mar 2007
Posts: 166
Location: The Netherlands

PostPosted: Sat Feb 13, 2010 3:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Perhaps it is a dumb question but what is the logic of putting thicker oil in it if the problem only exist when the engine and outside temperature is cold?. Even thinner oil is at it's thickest in that condition and the problem stops when the engine warms up.

There is some small oil leak from the sump (there where sump and gearbox meet) but that has been there for a while. A lot of technicians have worked on this but no one seems to get it tight. Now it only has liquid gasket. that seems to work better than the original cork gasket but also that started leaking a bit after a while.

The filter is not an original one from LR, I think.
I'll have the oil and filter replaced next week when it has to go to the garage anyway to replace a leaking steering house Crying or Very sad
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Bernd

D067 from The Netherlands
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bpv



Joined: 19 Mar 2007
Posts: 166
Location: The Netherlands

PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 10:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How strange, the past few days, the problem seems to have dissapeared without me taking any measures!!!
The only thing that might be is that the engine stays at higher revs a little longer when cold. I runs at about 1000 rpm for a few minutes when cold before going to it's normal level of around 700-800.
But I am not sure how that was in the past.
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Bernd

D067 from The Netherlands
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elcynico



Joined: 14 Jan 2009
Posts: 95

PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Has the outside ambient temperature been warmer ?

I'll rephrase that - is it not as cold as it was in December ?

That's why the thicker oil was suggested as it's thicker cold than the 5w-40w at start up from cold.

The Rover V8 as we all know isn't a modern engine - 10W-40W SEMI synthetic (or mineral) oil and filter change at least every 6 months is the "golden" rule !

Forget fully synthetic and high viscosity oils.
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bpv



Joined: 19 Mar 2007
Posts: 166
Location: The Netherlands

PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2010 10:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The past few days, it has been freezing. The problem also often occurs at higher temperatures up until +5C. That is why it is so strange.

Just spoke to the guy from the garage. He said LR is advising 5w40 full synthetic as preferred choice for the 50th. According to LR advice, he says, 5w40 semi synthetic is an good alternative.
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Bernd

D067 from The Netherlands
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elcynico



Joined: 14 Jan 2009
Posts: 95

PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2010 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Landrover also revised the service schedule for the 50th shortening it to every 12 months ?!!!!!!!

The engine is from the 60s and as such wasn't engineered for expensive fancy hi viscosity oils - as such I'll stick to what I know !

Smile
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mac



Joined: 21 Nov 2009
Posts: 84
Location: Northumberland

PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2010 11:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's colder outside then you engine will stay on 'cold start' for longer, obviously.

5w40 is a suitable alternative - for a cold climate. The UK (and Northern Europe) is moderate climate - so 10w40 is the correct oil to use - which I think has been said a couple of times already. . .
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bpv



Joined: 19 Mar 2007
Posts: 166
Location: The Netherlands

PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Point taken. They are going to put 10w40 in it today with a new oil filter as well.
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Bernd

D067 from The Netherlands
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clived



Joined: 29 Jul 2008
Posts: 140
Location: Herts

PostPosted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 12:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oil (10w40) and filter change for me last week - was probably a little overdue - only about 5k miles, but 16 months since last done.

Feels *much* better - I don't know to what degree I might be imagining it, but it certainly feels more sprightly and I seem to have recovered some top speed - honestly!

The filter was heeeeeavy when removed, so she was definitely less lubricated than she should have been.
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bpv



Joined: 19 Mar 2007
Posts: 166
Location: The Netherlands

PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

New Oil (10w40) and oil filter in for a week now. It feels better. outdoor temperatures are higher now so it is still too early to say what it will do when it starts freezing again.
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Bernd

D067 from The Netherlands
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