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Moving a 50th out of "park" with a failed fuel pum

 
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Trawleysteve



Joined: 22 Mar 2014
Posts: 16
Location: Cheshire

PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2018 6:33 pm    Post subject: Moving a 50th out of "park" with a failed fuel pum Reply with quote

Tried to start my 50th today, as I need to move it asap. Only to find it wouldn't start due to a failed fuel pump. I can't get it out of park so that I can push it out of the way. If there anyway of overriding it so that I can move the gear selection to neutral. Or will I have to disconnect the prop shafts!
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defender50th
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Joined: 14 Nov 2004
Posts: 1504
Location: Hampshire

PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2018 8:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

Can you not move the gear selector? Didnít think there is anything electronic to stop it.
Also the fuel pump relay can fail and stops the pump.
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James
Defender 50th GB 002
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Trawleysteve



Joined: 22 Mar 2014
Posts: 16
Location: Cheshire

PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2018 8:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No it won't move unless the engine is running. Same for the transfer box as thought I could put that in neutral. But no joy!
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defender50th
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Joined: 14 Nov 2004
Posts: 1504
Location: Hampshire

PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2018 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh I donít remember it being like that, will have to try mine.
There is a small metal clip on the top of the gear selector that can come off that stops he selector from moving. Itís under the plastic cap on top of the gear selector.
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James
Defender 50th GB 002
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defender50th
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Joined: 14 Nov 2004
Posts: 1504
Location: Hampshire

PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2018 10:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just double checked on mine and you can indeed shift the gear selector without it being started or even need the key in the ignition.
If it wonít shift have a look under the cover on the top and see if the clip has come off.
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James
Defender 50th GB 002
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NAS90



Joined: 24 Jul 2015
Posts: 118

PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2018 6:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

defender50th wrote:
Just double checked on mine and you can indeed shift the gear selector without it being started or even need the key in the ignition.
If it wonít shift have a look under the cover on the top and see if the clip has come off.

I know from when the battery went flat that mine is locked into Park when it is turned off, it will move out of Park when the ignition is on, doesn't need the engine to be started.

It may well be that the Park lock solenoid is powered by the same circuit as the fuel pump, which if I remember rightly is number 20 and is a 20 amp fuse, but the fuse box diagram on the back of the cover will tell you which fuse it is for sure.
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Trawleysteve



Joined: 22 Mar 2014
Posts: 16
Location: Cheshire

PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2018 7:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gents,

Thanks for the replies. I will investigate further. Stupid question, but not having worked on my 50th electrically. Are there a number of fuse boxes like on modern cars? And if so where is it located? I am not with the 50th at the moment but need to try and fix it quickly when I get back to it. Thanks again Steve.
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tyke57nz



Joined: 08 Apr 2011
Posts: 81
Location: Mainland, New Zealand

PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2018 8:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure whether your 50th is a UK or ROW version. Mine is ex Japan and as such requires ignition on and foot brake depressed before it will move from Park.
Fuel pump is fed from fuse #6 - 15Amp in the fuse box on the n/s of the engine bay just aft of the expansion tank. But it feeds through the inertia switch on the firewall then to the pump, just a thought to check that it hasn`t "tripped".
Fuse #20 in the fuse box in the cab behind the trinket tray at the frd end of the console, this feeds the ECU & Relay Module, be aware that the fuel pump feed is deactivated if the engine is not seen to be running after a short time period.
Rimmers did have the fuel pumps etc in stock as I replaced mine at Xmas.
For Online Manuals go to section on "About the Defender 50th" the electrical manuals are there and are very useful. Hope this helps.


Last edited by tyke57nz on Sun Sep 16, 2018 11:30 pm; edited 1 time in total
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MikeB



Joined: 20 Dec 2007
Posts: 116
Location: North Warwickshire

PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2018 7:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I need the circuit diagrams for mine. Someone did have a link but I can't find it. Can someone post it again please, or is there a URL to go to for 'For Online Manuals go to section on "About the Defender 50th" the electrical manuals are there and are very useful.'

Cheers,
Mike.
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SFDM



Joined: 08 Jan 2009
Posts: 26
Location: South Bucks

PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2018 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

With thanks to Allan

https://issuu.com/allangreen
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Trawleysteve



Joined: 22 Mar 2014
Posts: 16
Location: Cheshire

PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2018 7:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gents,

Thanks for all your help on this. Because it is a ROW 50th. Ignition on and press the brake pedal released the gear shift (thanks tyke57nz). Checked the fuse and relay , both ok so looks like it is a tank out fix. Any recommendations for the replacement pump? Thanks again. Steve
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tyke57nz



Joined: 08 Apr 2011
Posts: 81
Location: Mainland, New Zealand

PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2018 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Trawleysteve, just a guess but is your name related to your workplace?

This is list I ordered, ex Rimmers, prices in NZ$

1. 1 pce x ESR3928 - Fuel Pump Original Equipment $511 + GEN

2. 1 pce x NTC5859 - Seal for Fuel Pump $17 + OE

3. 1 pce x NTC5858 - Locking Ring for Fuel Pump $22 + GEN

4. 1 pce x ESR2821 - Mounting Rubber Not showing up for some reason, seems to be the right number though.

5. 1 pce x ESR2681 - Hose Filler $40 + OE

6. 1 pce x ESR2694 - Breather Pipe $90 + GEN

I redid the flexible feed and return fuel lines to the tank unit whilst it was out. When I dropped the tank guard out I found some corrosion in the frd stiffener bracket and a couple of other areas so opted to replace it with an Aluminium unit from YRM, #290 for a NAS90.
Had to cut off the after lip to allow it to fit around he ROW towbar assy. Bought some threaded rod to allow me to "jack" tank guard and tank down and back up again. Easiest way to empty tank is remove filler hose and siphon tank remaining contents out into jerry can.
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Trawleysteve



Joined: 22 Mar 2014
Posts: 16
Location: Cheshire

PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2018 8:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the info tyke57nz. Its a nickname. As I am the son of a fisherman (trawler man is a name for a commercial fisherman in the UK. Thanks again.
Steve.
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tyke57nz



Joined: 08 Apr 2011
Posts: 81
Location: Mainland, New Zealand

PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2018 8:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No worries, spent a while working on trawlers here in NZ.
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MikeB



Joined: 20 Dec 2007
Posts: 116
Location: North Warwickshire

PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2018 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brilliant. Many thanks for the link.

Cheers,
Mike.
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